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CHINA BLOG- My impressions from my trip October, 2009, to present to the Shaanxi Normal University in Xi'an China on creativity, based on my book, 365 Daily Affirmations for Creativity (available on Amazon.com)
Sunday, Oct. 11, 2009
OBSESSING OVER CHINA
Our son David surprised Jim and me by flying in from his home in Colorado for the weekend to see his Dad who banged himself up on his bicycle 2 weeks before, breaking 8 ribs. His body is still very sore, but David made his spirits soar. Jim assured me he could take care of himself while he recuperated at home and urged me to go forward with my plans to travel to Xian, China to present to university students on awakening creativity and reaching your full potential.
While the guys watched the Broncos, I was obsessively arranging every detail of my trip and baggage to take everything I needed - more than I usually pack - mini-bottles of hand sanitizers (poor sanitation), tissues (no toilet paper in public restrooms), cough syrup (to treat rampant pollution), copies of all my documents (in case of loss or theft), and technology (to communicate from halfway across the globe.) It seemed I took a long time - weeks - to prepare, but then again it wasn't too long ago a journey to another continent would take a year to plan, with many more perils to anticipate.
Monday, Oct. 12, 2009
MISSIONARIES AND MATERIALISM
A 6:30 departure with Alex, the Russian driver from Prime Time to beat the rush hour traffic this Columbus Day.
I left Newark NJ, USA on Continental on a 12:10 direct flight to Beijing China, which arrived at 2:10 the next day. The sun rises in the East, so I am now hours ahead - 12 to be exact, a convenient number - of my Love at home on the East Coast of America.
The flight was about 14 hours and went fine, except for the processed food as usual. Luckily I was armed with an apple and trail mix and Larabars. I sat next to Pentacostal evangelicals headed to Mongolia - very nice part Jewish man and his sweet Chinese wife who was very worried about me traveling alone. They mostly slept or read the Bible outloud. They own a gift shop in Atlanta and do some export import from China, using that as the reason they visit, although Christianity is currently "surgiing" in China, accordiing to the National Geographic special issue on China from May 2008 that I was reading. 41.5 percent of the population are "nonreligious." 27.5 % they listed as "Chinese folk believers," which I take to include ancestor worship, which a Chinese student told me was widespread. About evenly split at 8% each was Buddhists, atheiss and Christians. Animists are next at 4.3 %, followed up by the Muslim minority of 1.5%. Last but not least at .05% was "Other", which I guess includes me as a Unitarian Universalist, though my religion draws upon he best wisdom of all the above categories. The man said "the government does not exactly embrace the misson purpose they have - they wouldn't invite them home for tea." He was very proud he baptized 16 people in the last several months.
Much of my upcoming talk relates to the concept of balance, so it is interesting to me that Nat'l Geographic reports the "fervor for Christianity does not reflect a split with tradition,"g because the Western religions in China reflect aspects of local culture. A 92 year old bishop in Shanghai, Bishop Lin, who spent 27 years in labor camps, says the revival of religion among youth in particular is partly caused by "rampant materialism...souls become ever more empty, which affords religions room to expand."
NO JET LAG TIP
Took the Jet Lag management homeopathic treatment recommended by Chiina travelers Sharon Crain and Vera Schwarcz, who helped me arrange this trip. It's called Jet Zone, and you have to take it periodically just before, during and just after your flight. It worked for the most part I guess. Hard to say because I slept on the plane a few hours, and when I arrived in 2 in the afternoon, it would have been 2 in the morning back home. I got into my bed in the hotel at 7:30 and got my eight hours. So here I am at 4 in the morning writing my blog!
Smooth flight - saw two movies. I chose them on China: Beijing bicycle - reminded me of the attachment to bicycles Jim and David have. And the comedy C73 or something - like a Chinese ET. Both movies showed how a poor person was struggliing to keep up with the rapid changes in the economy and trying to get ahead.
Tues Oct 13, 2009
I was pleasantly surprised by the entire trip.I had feared my arrival in the airport would be disorienting after such a long flight, with huge crowds, long lines and confusing signs. Nothing like that at all - smooth, modern, civilized, clean. The airport complex remiinded me of the grand architecture of the Olympic stadium is complete with trains to terminals comparing well with Orlando airport. Signs in Engish very clear. Smiling people helping every step of the way. Short lines at passport control customs (all workers were wearing masks, dust masks which filter no virus, but look scary) and I easily changed money at a bank at baggage while I waited. . When I walked through to the lobby, there was more noise and excitement amongst all the taxi drivers hawking for customers, When I saw the large sign with my name, Janet Luongo, clearly written held by a solid looking man, I felt greatly relieved. He led me through
I texted Jim on my cell (for 50cents) that I arrived safe, so he'd read it when he woke up. It was 3 am in CT, He answered right away! We also spoke via our cells for 2 minutes - always wonderful to hear live voices of people you love.
Everything was better than I expected - new cars, buildings, landscape. it's a bright sunny day, jacket weather. There are not the dismal clouds of pollutions I dreaded. There are a lot more cars than in the past and we had a delay on the highway. People got
out of their cars and lit up cigarettes (smoking is rampant in China). We went past streets filled with stores that were largely similar to those in any big western city I've been in, except for the beautiful Chinese characters on signage.
Arriviing in Beijing, we had to go down very narrow one lane streets that were nevertheless two-way, loaded with pedestrians, including a group of young soldiers, and bicycles. I was proud I could pronounce the word for these lanes - hutong - pronounced hootoong. My taxi driver gave me a thumbs up! He was asking me questions with his rudimentary English (much better than my 7 words of Mandarin). He asked me my opinion, "Obama - good?" I said yes. He communicated somehow that he wasn't sure. He liked Bush because Bush fought back on 9/11 and got rid of Saddam Hussein. I said yes, Saddam Hussein was bad, but he did not plan 9/11 attack. Osama bin Laden did and Bush never caught him. He agreed with a big smile that Bush did not do anything about climate warming either. He used the int'l symbol of tapping the temple to indicate that he thought Obama was very smart. He didn't know he'd just won the Nobel Peace Prize. I said there are some Americans that don't agree that Obama is good. He smiled and said American PEOPLE are good; and Chinese PEOPLE are good.
COURTYARD HOTEL - A UNIQUE TREASURE
The hotel is really wonderful, located among the ancient hutong that are in danger of being lost due to modernization. The personnel were personal, welcoming and efficient, speaking English carefully and well. They said I had a surprise, a corner room with a little garden. There are red lanterns hanging outside, and a lantern by my desk to augment the overhead light. This unique hotel (www.courtyard7.com) with reasonable rates, was recommended by Matthew, whom I found via Vera's network. It's an 800 year old building that has been completely renovated. They kept the old wood, lattice work, courtyards, and added modern bathrooms, electricity (I needed no adaptor), heater, internet connections (temporarily down).
Dinner at the hotel was served by smiling lovely attentive girls in blue and white brocade fitting jackets who knew basic restaurant English. Through a red gauze curtain, I saw a group of 7 chinese business men in dark suits were eating at the next table. The menu had Chinese and English, and I ordered chicken curry with rice, but the chicken had more parts included (fat and bone) than I usually eat. The plate of vegetables - leafy greens with some carrots and pepper, were scrumptious. My bed is firm and framed with a wood canopy and I gratefully climbed into it around 7:30 pm.
Wednesday, Oct 14, 2009
Courtyard 7 Hotel is located near Tianenmen square and Forbidden City, so that is where I am headed today. Tomorrow the Great Wall of China! I booked that and can't wait.
EARLY MORNING
After 4 hours up early writing, readiing,stretching, studying Mandarin I took a shower - fantastic hot water! , I went to the breakfast buffet. A chef with a tall white chef's hat made an omelette for me w chosen toppings, just like on a Caribbean crruise. There was the familiar cut up fruit - grapes, melon, watermelon, oranges (w skin cut to look like antelope). There was other fruit I didn't recognize, plenty of sweet cakes I didn't try, except for a cornbread roll. I did try a bowl of slippery tofu with cilantro, soysauce and pepper - good. That was my protein, instead of the bacon and sausage - they are trying to appeal to Westerners. I also had a bowl of "porridge" - it was rice - bland but good. Coffee, tea was offered.
I began to feel nervous about heading out into the Big City alone. I sat in the mini garden outside my room, reading about the Forbidden City so I wouldn't get overwhelmed with info and found out the north gate, nearer my hotel, would be less packed than the south gate. Pored over maps trying to get my bearings - how to walk through the tiny hutong alleys to get to the Forbidden City. A hotel "angel" directed me. Double-checking I had everything with me I needed, at ten o'clock I finally stepped over the threshhold.
It was so quiet! Sounds of bicycles whispering past, sometimes a little jingle of a bell. People walking at a leisuring pace - Tunnels everywhere with workers of all age, digging endless tunnels - preparing for the modernizing of these antique alleys. Tiny storefronts with no windows displayed wares, breads, conveniences, white haired ladies overseeing. It's a world unto itself.
Bursting onto Di'an Men, a main bicycle lined Beijing street, filled with variety of faces. Few looked at me, they are used to blonde foreigners now, marked by the fanny pack and the guide book in hand - even women out on their own. Again I am surprised that it is not more crowded or busy -no sense of the hectic rushing of NYC.
WHAT I NEVER SAW BEFORE.
I heard the singing, then I saw the caged birds in trees. Walking around Jing Shan Park, which is not free to the public, I saw men hanging their bird cages with blue covers onto limbs. When they uncovered them the birds sang while the men meditated, or socialized.
FORBIDDEN CITY LUCK
When I stepped up to the clearly marked ticket window, ready to get my audio guide, I was greeted by Michael Ming who introduced himself as a guide. He said it would be much better with someone who was alive. I said yes he did seem alive and he laughed. He has a good sense of humor, and speaks English very well (was an English teacher for 5 years before he became a guide). We had a great day. I told him I would stop to film or photograph if somethiing caught my eye. In the Forbidden City - that was practically at every turn! - the bright colors of the buildiings, the tiles, doorways, the symbols, the statuary and gargoyles - all amazing. A young girl approached us about an exhibit and I saw she was an artist with traditional scroll paintings of the Great Wall - I bargained to buy the Wall in snow for half price at $23. I remember being a young artist eager to sell my work.
There were tour groups everywhere. School students in black jackets and blue shirts. Tour guides leading with flags, and followers identified with red caps or foldiing hats or T-shirts. Mostly Chiinese people, happy to be here, with grandmothers, and children. If I asked to take a picture, it was not only fine, they were flattered and began to pose and sometimes perform! Thankiing me at the end! (So unlike the Muslims in Egypt who covered their faces, fearing the camera capturing their image would steal their soul.)
One man from the country sat his old wife down next to me and asked to a picture; shoulder to shoulder with a blonde Westerner - a symbol of having seen the world.
As I looked at people and colors, Michael informed me of the history, starting with the concubines. the Emperor had 900 wives. We saw the hall where they were upper class girls were paraded to be chosen (reminding me of the slave meat markets in the South of America). It was an honor to be able to serve the emperor and the families benefited though they would never see their daughters again, they knew she would be well taken care of. It was a different story with the eunochs who came mostly from the poor. To better themselves, to live in the Forbidden City, they took the chance of having the surgery of castration, with a 50% chance of infection and death. they chose this over the sure fate they would die of starvation. Ming said what a world it was.
Ming told me more about the Forbidden City colorful personalities and scandals - from its construction in 1420 it housed 24 emperors to the last boy Emperor Pu Yi who took the throne at age three. this day his nephew was creating calligraphy and showing his work. The Forbidden City was his playground, andhe removed thresholds to create bicycle paths. Pu Yi's grandmother, the Empress Dowager, called the Dragon Lady. She would have prepared for her a hundred meals before she chose one. Such incredible absolute power! We saw her quarters - filled with jade, gold, fine wood-carved lattices, stone floors (they engineered a heating system underneath the floors) but no one was allowed inside to see the treasures first hand.
I loved the symbolic imagery - the phoenix for the female and the dragon for the male. Also symbols for longevity - turtle, crane, cypress tree - I will remember, since I am studying and teaching people how to live long and happy lives. High thresholds kept out evil spirits, as did other structures and practices. Huge ceramic vats stored water as insurance against fire. Lions (male and female) guarded the gates. Multiples of the number nine, considered the most fortunate, prevailed in designs everywhere, much like measurements of pi are the basis of proportions in the Greek Parthenon.
LUNCH IN A REAL CHINESE RESTAURANT
There were no English words on this menu, or other Westerners at the tables. Ming took me to a place he likes nearby. He too eats mostly vegetarian, so we had a scrumptious feast, a table filled with plates we shared, except noodles - his were served with cucumbers, mine with tomatoes. We had a eggdrop soup with big clumps of seaweed, bok choy with mushrooms, and the most delicious plate of eggplant with garlic.
We had great conversations about China's extraordinary transformation. At 45, he witnessed suchcontrasts. Just a boy when the cultural revolution started, he accompanied his parents who were both middle school teachers of literature and music to the countryside where they were "re-educated" to learn the ways of the peasants, whose status was elevated. A teacher was low on the scale. Conditions were stark - all there was to eat was sorghum, food for animals - no meat, milk, vegetables or fruit. There was no school for him, but his parents taught him what they could. He later went to teachers college, became a teacher, a salesman and now a guide.
Ming describes the changing ambitions of the people. In the 70s they all wanted a good bicycle - then they were happy. In the 80s they wanted watches and color TVs. In the nineties apartments, cars. Now it is homes on the outskirts, villa style, and trips abroad. But people are not getting any happier. All the competition, change, and choice cause confusion. People are very stressed, and have no time for their familes. The whole family structure, which used to be the core support system, is totally different now. In the past it was usual for four generations to live under one roof. Then it was three - just grandparents, parents and children. Now it's just parents and one child, or the empty nest of older parents living alone. Children now live furhter away, spending less time with elders. Whereas in the past it was a secure custom that children would care for their aging parents, now old people go to nursing homes, which is a booming business in china. There is more depression now. He says that in Beijing alone, 100,000 people a year commit suicide.
Everything has a good and bad side. Traditions are being eroded at a cost. Some people are returning to more traditional ways, having become disillusioned with the emptiness of pursuing material goods.
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN
We had to take a taxi (for a few dollars) from the center to the southeast part of Beijing. An extraordinary work of architecture, its grandeur and circular shape reminding me of a space ship. Beiing high up in the city under such a brilliant unusual structure, I felt like it would just lift off any moment. The dominant color is blue to represent heaven, but other colors were present - if I remember the symbols: bright green for wood, yellow for purity, red for happiness and fortune.
The emperors would use this largest stage to perform solemn ceremonies to ensure the prosperity of the population. He would burn incense ina special building and say prayers for a good harvest. No foreigners or general populace were allowed to observe this sacred ceremony. In fact the people were ordered to go behind closed doors at home and block their windows.
BALLROOM DANCING
We wound up our visit to the Temple of Heaven, at the outside park. In the morning it's filled with people doing tai chi, or dancing. There were a few practicing. Iwent over to film, then Ming invited me to tango, which I have never done before. I was looking down, following his feet - he's a good leader, but I was stumbilng about and when I spun around I saw that all the other dancers and bystanders had stopped to watch us - this Chinese man with a crazy foreigner! The dances got easier - just a 4 step - and that was fun and people stayed to observe and smile.
TEA HOUSE
We ended at the tea house, where we learned of tea culture and the healing powers of Chinese teas with all different purposes. Black tea, and oolong tea which is between black and green. And a special healing tea for digestion - 12 year old puer. there were special ceramic cups, and cups that turned color with the hot water, and a funny "pee-pee boy."
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